🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.